Alexandria - Metropolis on the Mediterranean

Alexandria - Metropolis on the Mediterranean

Alexandria is Egypt's second-largest city. More than four million people live in this important port metropolis on the Mediterranean. The city lies on the western edge of the Nile Delta. Alexandria (in Arabic al-Iskandariyya or el-Iskandariya) is named after its founder, Alexander the Great. The Macedonian general came to Egypt in 332 BC, after having marched through Asia Minor, Syria, and Palestine to fight against the Persian Empire. During his campaigns across the Persian Empire, which at that time stretched from Libya and Asia Minor in the west to the Indus River in the east, he founded many cities that were named after him. Egyptian Alexandria was his most famous city foundation. Almost a millennium passed – from its founding in the winter of 332/331 BC to 100,000 – in 1900 BC. From the 4th century BC until the Arab conquest in the years 639 to 641 AD, Alexandria was the capital of Egypt (i.e., initially the residence of the Ptolemies, later the capital of the Roman province of Egypt). After the Arab conquest, it was replaced by Old Cairo (Fustat) and then Cairo (al-Qahira).

Alexandria, the port city: The largest share, two-thirds to three-quarters, of Egypt's imports and exports is handled at the port of Alexandria. This makes Alexandria the most important port city in Egypt. (However, this is trending downwards, as the ports of Port Said, Damietta, and Suez are gaining in importance. Port Said and Suez are also of particular significance because they serve as transit points for shipping through the Suez Canal.) The port of Alexandria is divided into two basins by a peninsula. Small ships and boats dock in the eastern basin (ancient name: Portus Magnus). The modern industrial port, where goods and containers from large cargo ships are unloaded, is located in the western basin (ancient name: Portus Eunostus). Alexandria's tradition as a port city dates back to its origins, as it was originally conceived and founded as a port city. Even in antiquity, the port of Alexandria was the most important in Egypt and one of the largest and most important in the entire Mediterranean. Approximately where the Qait Bey Fort stands today, the famous Pharaoh's Lighthouse once stood. Pharos was an island off the harbor, connected to the mainland by a causeway. There was formerly a waterway from the Mediterranean Sea via Lake Mareotis (now Lake Mariyut) to the western branch of the Nile. Today, the waterway connects the harbor to the Rosetta branch of the Nile via the al-Mahmudiya Canal, a roughly 80-kilometer-long canal excavated by Mohammed Ali between 1817 and 1820.

Alexandria, the international metropolis: Even in classical antiquity, Alexandria was an international and multicultural city. Here, Egyptian culture met Greek culture. There were Greek and Egyptian quarters. The division into an Egyptian city, named Rhakotis (after the ancient Egyptian place name "Ra-Kedet"), and a Greek city, named Neapolis, was planned from the outset. There were also quarters for other minorities such as Jews and Syrians. Foreign mercenaries, as well as merchants and traders from all regions of the Mediterranean, lived in their own quarters. Here, different nationalities mingled. Traders and seafarers from a wide variety of countries offered their wares. The city remained international throughout the Middle Ages and the modern era. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Alexandria, the "Pearl of the Mediterranean," was a cosmopolitan home to many intellectuals, poets, writers, artists, and global citizens. Even today, many Lebanese, Greeks, Armenians, and Italians live here, although their numbers have declined in recent decades. For a long time, there were also significant Jewish communities. In antiquity, there was even a separate Jewish quarter in the eastern part of the city. However, there were also persecutions of Jews. In 415 AD, Patriarch Cyril ordered the Jewish quarter to be destroyed. In the wake of the Arab-Israeli wars and in the context of Arab nationalism during the Nasser era, most Jews left the country. The trend of Egyptianization, or rather, nationalization of the country, is also evident in Alexandria. The proportion of residents of foreign origin is shrinking, largely due to emigration, while the proportion of native Egyptians is growing, due to immigration from the rural regions of the Delta and the high birth rate. In return, more international tourists and visitors from the wealthy Gulf States are arriving, seeking respite from the heat of the summer months by the sea air.

Alexandria, the Christian metropolis: Christianity is said to have been brought to Alexandria by the Evangelist Saint Mark as early as the 1st century AD. He founded the first Christian community in Alexandria in 43 AD and began the Christianization of Egypt. In late Roman and Byzantine times, Alexandria became one of the most important cities of Christianity, alongside Rome and Byzantium. The so-called School of Alexandria produced outstanding theologians and Christian philosophers who significantly shaped the religious discourse of late antiquity. As long as Christians were in the minority, there were several instances of massive persecution of Christians in Alexandria, for example, under the Roman emperors Decius and Valerian. However, as soon as Christians became the majority and Christianity the state religion of the Eastern Roman Empire, there were, conversely, persecutions of pagans by Christians. Ancient temples such as the Serapeum were destroyed during this time. The Pope of Alexandria and Patriarch of the See of St. Mark (currently Shneouda III) resides alternately in Alexandria and Cairo. He is the head of the Coptic Orthodox Church of Alexandria, the largest Christian community in Egypt with several million followers. Alexandria is also the seat of the Patriarch of the Greek Orthodox Church of Africa and the seat of the Melkite Greek Catholic Church of the Eastern Levant. Alexandria, the Islamic metropolis: The majority of Alexandria's current inhabitants are Muslims, mostly Sunnis. The city boasts countless mosques. Some are of great importance, either for their size or their historical significance. In the Anshufi district, the peninsula between the East and West harbors, the enormous el-Mursi Mosque and the historic Ibrahim Terbana Mosque (dating from the 17th century) are particularly noteworthy. The el-Korbagi Mosque stands at the West Harbor, and the large Nabi Danyal Mosque in the city center is also worth mentioning. Alexandria's importance declined with the arrival of Islam in favor of Cairo. While Alexandria was the center of Greco-Roman and Christian Egypt, Cairo became the center of Islamic Egypt.

Alexandria, the modern metropolis: Alexandria, along with Cairo, is Egypt's largest commercial and industrial center. The textile and food industries dominate the cityscape. A large oil refinery is also located here – contributing to the country's oil production, which, while small compared to that of the Gulf States, is nonetheless significant. The central districts boast numerous impressive buildings – both modern and from the previous century. There are also beautiful old cafes and colonial-style residences. As a major city with more than four million inhabitants, Alexandria also faces many challenges. These include the growing slums in the suburbs, the decay of historical buildings, rural exodus driving many former farmers to the city in search of work, the extremely high youth unemployment rate, the neglect of certain neighborhoods, particularly those inhabited by the poorest, the inadequate infrastructure that cannot keep pace with population growth, traffic congestion, and finally, the smog caused by industrial and vehicle emissions. The city is undoubtedly at its most beautiful in the historic center and around the eastern harbor along the Corniche. Those who venture off the beaten tourist track and sightseeing routes will quickly encounter the city's grittier side. Nevertheless, life in Alexandria possesses a unique charm. During the hot summer months, many Egyptians flock to Alexandria to cool off in the sea breeze and enjoy the vibrant city life. Many Arab tourists from the Gulf States also visit. The best way to experience the city's lively atmosphere is through leisurely strolls, taking breaks in one of the many cafes.

Directions to Alexandria from Cairo:

Those wishing to travel from Cairo to Alexandria by car or taxi are best advised to use the well-developed highways. Highway 01 runs from North Cairo through Benha, then past Tanta, to Alexandria. An even more direct route is via the new desert highway, the Alexandria Desert Road (also known as Highway 11), which runs parallel to the western edge of the Cairo Delta, through the desert to Alexandria.

The ancient wonders of Alexandria

Apart from all the ruins and monuments, the archaeological and historical sights that tourists can visit in Alexandria today (see Part 2: Sights), it should not go unmentioned that the largest and most fascinating buildings of ancient Alexandria no longer stand today.

The Lighthouse of Pharos – Of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, two stood in Egypt: the Great Pyramid of Giza and the Lighthouse on the island of Pharos in Alexandria. (However, only the Great Pyramid still stands today: it is the only remaining of the Seven Wonders.) The Lighthouse of Pharos no longer exists. Although it remained in operation until the Arab period, it underwent several renovations. In the Middle Ages (probably around 1326 AD), it collapsed due to earthquakes. It is said to have been approximately 110 meters high. Its builder and designer was a Greek named Sostratus of Cnidus. Its patrons were the kings Ptolemy I Soter and Ptolemy II Philadelphus in the early 3rd century BC. Its purpose was to guide ships on the Mediterranean Sea to the port of Alexandria. However, it was also an expensive prestige project, intended to signal to all incoming ships that they were docking at the port of a rich and powerful city. Stone blocks and debris from the tower were incorporated into the construction of Fort Qait Bay. Divers and underwater archaeologists have discovered further blocks and structural elements of the lighthouse in the harbor basin of the East Harbor. Pharaoh's Island is now part of the Anfushi peninsula, meaning that the ancient island, which was once connected to the mainland by a causeway, later became a peninsula.

Library and Museion of Alexandria – In Alexandria, a center of learning, a temple of philosophy and art, was established. The Museion of Alexandria was a kind of hybrid between an academy and a museum, with a unique library that archived the knowledge of the ancient world. Hundreds of thousands of scrolls were stored here. Alongside the Academy in Athens, this Museion was one of the intellectual centers of antiquity. Numerous philosophers, mathematicians, astronomers, geographers, poets, and thinkers worked here, including the mathematician Euclid, the engineer Archimedes, the geographer Erastosthenes, and the philologist Aristophanes, who compiled the first Greek dictionary, to name just a few. The Museion was built and inaugurated in the 3rd century BC; it was thus a foundation of the Ptolemies. In addition to the library and academy, the Museion also included a zoo and a botanical garden. Although a large portion of the scrolls were lost in the fire that destroyed the library around 48 BC, the Museion was largely preserved. The Museion was destroyed around 274 BC during the conflicts between the Romans under Julius Caesar and the Ptolemies. However, new collections of scrolls were donated from other cities. Overall, Alexandria remained an intellectual center even during the Roman and Byzantine Empires. Even Roman emperors Hadrian and Marcus Aurelius visited the Museion. Although parts of the Museion were destroyed around 274 AD under the Roman Emperor Aurelian, Alexandria remained a center of learning even during the early Christianization. In 389 AD, the Serapeum (Sanctuary of Serapis), where part of the ancient library was stored, was burned down. This occurred in the context of violent clashes between Christians and non-Christians. Bishop Theophilus gave the order for its destruction on the emperor's instructions. Unfortunately, no archaeological remains of the library have survived.

Sights of Alexandria

Most of Alexandria's sights are located in the historic city center, between the train station in the south and the peninsula (Anfushi district) between the East and West Harbors in the north. Those who enjoy walking and have some time to spare can visit many of the city center's attractions on a walking tour. The Corniche of Alexandria: The best place to get into the city spirit after arriving is a stroll along the Corniche, the waterfront promenade on Alexandria's eastern harbor. You can reach it from Tahrir Square (with a large statue of Muhammad Ali, located between the Palace of Justice and St. Mark's Anglican Church), via Ahmed Orabi Square, past the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. On the Corniche, you can stroll and enjoy the sea breeze. Many Egyptians also walk here and then relax in the nearby cafes. A stroll along the Corniche can be wonderfully combined with a visit to Fort Qait Bey. The ancient theater of Kom el-Dik (Kom el-Dik, Kom el-Dikka, Kom ed-Dikka): This Roman amphitheater, dating from the 3rd and 4th centuries AD, was long lost, covered over, and ultimately built over by a military fort, until it was discovered during the fort's demolition in the 1960s and subsequently excavated by a Polish-Egyptian team of archaeologists. The theater lies between Sharia Horriya (or Sharia Horeya) to the north and the main train station to the south. Thirteen semicircular rows of seats and some columns remain. Behind them are the ruins of Roman baths and some structural remains of an ancient villa with floor mosaics.

The Fort of Qait Bey (Kait Bey): At the eastern end of the East Harbor's promontory stands the fortress of Qait Bey, a 15th-century Mamluk sultan. Destroyed by an earthquake, it was rebuilt under Mohammed Ali. Resembling a Crusader fortress jutting out into the sea, the fort was constructed to monitor the harbor. Various building materials from older structures can be seen in the stonework of the ramparts. The fortress offers a beautiful view of the East Harbor and the Corniche.

The Catacombs of Kom el-Shufaga (Kom el-Shufaga, Kom el-Shufaka): Located near the ruins of the Serapeum and Pompey's Column are the Catacombs of Kom el-Shufaga. They date from the 1st and 2nd centuries AD. This is a hypogeum (i.e., an underground burial chamber) of a cult community that interred its dead here in numerous burial niches. The site is remarkable for its size and complexity. This realm of the dead extends over three levels and is a blend of Egyptian funerary cult complex and Roman catacomb. This symbiosis of both cultures is also evident in the relief decoration of the complex. It is difficult to determine which stylistic elements are more Greco-Roman or Egyptian. The motifs, however, are clearly Egyptian. They revolve around the typical themes of the Egyptian funerary cult, mixed with religious symbolism as it developed during the Ptolemaic period. From the entrance to the catacombs, a spiral staircase leads to the first underground level. There, one arrives at a kind of rotunda from which, like a spinning top, chambers and passageways radiate. After a few steps, one enters a rectangular room, the so-called triclinium, where funeral rites were celebrated. The bier was not intended for the bodies, but for the funeral feast of the bereaved. On the other side of the rotunda are several chambers and niches. In the center, a staircase descends to the second underground level. There, one first enters a vestibule. One looks out onto an underground burial chapel. The entrance to the chapel is formed by a pronaos with two columns. The wings above the entrance symbolize the sun. The two serpent figures are not uraeus serpents or the Egyptian goddess Buto, but rather representations of Agathos Daimon, a protective deity of the city. In the burial chapel, three coffin niches are built into the walls, each containing a mock sarcophagus. On the back wall of the chamber is a relief with Egyptian motifs: the pharaoh offering sacrifices before a sacrificial altar and the Apis bull, and behind him the goddess Isis with outstretched wings and a sun disk on her head. Further depictions of deities in the burial chapel show the usual gods of the funerary cult: Horus, Thoth, and Anubis, the latter curiously wearing a Roman breastplate and armed with a spear.

The tombs of Ras et-Tin and Anfushi: The district on the peninsula separating the East Harbor from the West Harbor is called Anfushi. Here, at the northwestern end of the peninsula, stands the Ras et-Tin Palace, built by Mohammed Ali in the first half of the 19th century. In the palace gardens, a complex of eleven Ptolemaic rock tombs dating from the 2nd and 3rd centuries BC was discovered at the beginning of the 20th century. These are now closed to tourists for conservation reasons. However, the tombs in the Anfushi necropolis south of the palace are open to the public. These consist of five Hellenistic burial and cult sites (hypogees) whose tomb decoration exhibits a symbiosis of Greek and Egyptian stylistic elements and motifs. Especially in the area of ​​the burial chambers, one encounters familiar Egyptian motifs with the deities relevant in the cult of the dead (Anubis, Horus, Isis, Osiris, etc.).

The El-Mursi Mosque and the Ibrahim Terbana Mosque: Two important mosques are located on the Anfushi peninsula. The relatively new Abu Abbas el-Mursi Mosque is the most important mosque in Alexandria. It was built between 1928 and 1945 and named after Sidi Abul Abbas el-Mursi, an Islamic saint from Andalusia (southern Spain). Two blocks south of the El-Mursi Mosque stands the historic Ibrahim Terbana Mosque, dating from the 17th century.

The Serapeum (Serapeion) and Pompey's Column: A large temple, the Serapeum of Alexandria, was dedicated to the god Serapis, a Greco-Egyptian hybrid deity favored by the Ptolemies. Here he was worshipped along with the deities Isis, Apis, and the divine child Harpocrates. Attached to the Serapeum was a large library, a branch of the library of the Museion. In the 1st century AD, the temple suffered destruction, but was also rebuilt. Finally, in 391 AD, on the orders of Bishop Theophilus, the Serapeum was destroyed by fanatical Christians in their hatred of pagans, and its library was plundered. They built a monastery on the site, which was also destroyed in the Middle Ages. Only a few ruins remain of the famous Serapeum. The only imposing monument that survives is the renowned Pompey's Column. It was erected during the Roman imperial period. According to the dedicatory inscription on its base, it was dedicated to the Roman Emperor Diocletian. It was therefore erected in 292 AD. It is almost 27 meters high and has a Corinthian capital. It received the name "Pompeius' Column" from the Crusaders, who misdated it or, in their ignorance, assumed that Pompey was buried there. Today, the Egyptians call it Amud es-Sawari. To prevent the column from standing alone in the field of ruins, two sphinx figures from the Ptolemaic period, which were found elsewhere in the city, have been placed on pedestals, creating a kind of historical monument ensemble.

The Souks (Basars) of Alexandria: Alexandria also boasts numerous bazaars. Most are located roughly halfway between the main train station and the peninsula district of Anfushi. Those traveling from the city center to the Qaitbey Fort, the Anfushi Tombs, or the Ras et Tin Palace can visit one or more of these bazaars (souks, suqs) along the way (or on their return journey). Most are situated along the southern section of Sharia Ras et Tin, which leads from the city center to the palace of the same name, as well as in the area of ​​Sharia el-Midan. Here, one can purchase oriental handicrafts, gold and silver jewelry, and clothing. In the transition zone between the Anfushi and Manshiya districts, there are many narrow alleyways with a market atmosphere. Bibliotheca Alexandrina: In remembrance of the ancient Library of Alexandria in the Moseion and Serapeum, which once housed the largest archive of scrolls in antiquity, a new library was built: the Bibliotheca Alexandrina. The library was built under the auspices of UNESCO. Inside and next to the library are numerous exhibitions, a collection of ancient manuscripts, a branch of the Greco-Roman Museum with representative exhibits of ancient art, a planetarium, and a cultural center with music and theater.

Greco-Roman Museum: Given the modern development, only a few monuments and ruins remain of ancient Alexandria. To gain an impression of the wealth and art of this ancient metropolis, a visit to the Greco-Roman Museum (Graeco-Roman Museum, Mathaf ar-Romani), founded in 1892, is highly recommended. Here, visitors can expect to find more than 40,000 exhibits – although not all are on display, as many are stored in the museum's archives. However, the most important and beautiful pieces are exhibited in 23 halls and rooms surrounding a large courtyard. The exhibits primarily consist of reliefs, statues, and sculptures from the Ptolemaic and Roman periods of the city. There are also older Pharaonic monuments and works of art from the Christian Byzantine and Coptic periods. In addition, there are collections of ancient glassware, bronzes, coins, jewelry, and several sarcophagi and colossal statues. National Museum: The new National Museum has fewer exhibits. Opened in 2003, it covers a longer period. It houses artworks from all eras, from ancient Egypt and the Pharaohs, through classical antiquity and the Islamic period, to exhibits from more recent history. The archaeological finds from the underwater excavations at Canopus (east of Alexandria) are also on display. Montaza Park: At the northeastern edge of the city lies a large, popular park. It was used by the Khedives and Sultans of Egypt in the 19th and 20th centuries. Magnificent palaces can also be found there, such as the Salamlek Palace of Khedive Abbas II. This building was completed in 1892. The grand al-Haramlik Palace of Fuad I has a somewhat kitschy feel. Inaugurated in 1932, it is reminiscent of a cross between an oriental palace à la Arabian Nights and Neuschwanstein Castle.